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WHAT TO SEE IN KANAZAWA
Nomura Residence Garden
Nomura Residence Garden
NAGAMACHI:
Behind the walls that line the alleys of the Nagamachi district, centuries of history are hidden, telling captivating family stories and the deeds of the warriors who lived in these elegant residences. Walking here, you get the feeling of slipping back in time, returning to the Edo period, when powerful samurai families resided in this area. The atmosphere has remained as traditional as it was then, worlds away from the traffic and noise of the city, with cobbled paths winding between the high walls and the gentle sound of water from the Onosho canal.
The Nagamachi district is little visited by tourists. It is a place you absolutely cannot miss not only because it represents one of the best-preserved legacies of the golden age of the samurai, but also because it offers evocative views and a tranquil atmosphere ideal for a relaxing walk.
During the Edo period, Kanazawa was the fourth largest city in Japan, and one of the richest, thanks above all to the enormous power of the Maeda clan, who ruled the city. For this reason, many samurai resided in Kanazawa. Among them was the Nomura family, who served the Maeda, one of the most influential and wealthy families of the time: their wealth was reflected in the splendor of their residence, which is now open to visitors.
The residence of the Nomura family still preserves extraordinary treasures, and the extensive restoration work has returned this place to its former splendor. The refined architectural style and the walls decorated with beautiful paintings fascinate anyone who enters this wooden villa. Room after room, anecdotes and habits of the family are revealed through numerous artifacts, including armor placed next to the entrance and many everyday objects.
One of the most distinctive parts is undoubtedly the small garden (the third most beautiful garden in Japan) where you can stroll around the carp pond and admire the meticulously maintained plants and trees; in the background, the sound of small waterfalls makes the atmosphere even more relaxing.
HIGASHI CHAYA:
In ancient times, the center of Kanazawa was dotted with many chaya houses, characteristic buildings where parties and performances were held. Within the walls of these houses, the geisha performed dances and songs and enjoyed playing traditional Japanese instruments. In 1820, the chaya houses were moved from the city center and enriched the peripheral districts of Kanazawa. If you want to take a trip back in time and experience a bit of the lively and authentic atmosphere that once reigned in the old districts, head to Higashi Chaya, the largest chaya district in Kanazawa.
Walking through the maze of winding alleys in the district, you will feel as if you are getting lost in a labyrinth. As you cross this network of narrow streets, you can admire the exteriors of the ancient chaya houses, with their characteristic lattice pattern, the so-called kimusuko. The houses are all made of wood and have two floors. On the lower floor, the geisha devoted themselves to the arts and entertained guests with dances and songs, while the upper floor housed the guest rooms. Among the houses in the Higashi Chaya district, there is a very ancient residence, which was built about 180 years ago: it is possible to visit its interior and walk through its rooms rich in history.
KENROKU-EN GARDENS:
On the hills, in the central area of the city of Kanazawa, lies one of Japan's natural wonders. Considered one of the three most beautiful gardens in the country, Kenroku-en Garden is one of those places you absolutely cannot miss during your visit to Japan. In any season you choose to visit, it offers a unique and evocative setting: in spring, you will reach the entrance of the garden by walking along an avenue of blooming cherry trees that will envelop you with their scents and colors. In summer, the garden transforms into an oasis of peace immersed in the green of the vegetation and represents the perfect place to take refuge away from the noise of the city. In winter, the landscape becomes almost fairytale-like with snow covering the entire area and the yukitsuri (a system that protects the pines from snow) covering the trees.
KANAZAWA CASTLE:
Next to the Kenroku-en gardens stands the imposing Kanazawa Castle, within whose walls you can travel back in time retracing the history of the Maeda dynasty that lived and ruled in this place for over 200 years. The manor stands right in the heart of the city on a hill between the Sai and Asano rivers. The strategic position of this fortress provided, in the past, greater protection from possible attacks. The buildings that can be admired today are the ruins of the original castle, which was partly destroyed by wars and fires. Its history is closely intertwined with the history of the Maeda family, who ruled for a long time over the Kaga area, where the city of Kanazawa was located. In the 16th century, Japan was divided into fiefdoms and each land property was governed by a nobleman, called a daimyo who, although he had to comply with the rules of the shogun, carried out his role independently, autonomously deciding the organization of his own fief. Toshiie Maeda became daimyo at the end of the 1500s and, under his rule, the city of Kanazawa developed and experienced its period of greatest splendor. The population increased and Toshiie Maeda sought to attract artisans and merchants to the city by guaranteeing them excellent conditions for their businesses. The castle was damaged and even destroyed several times by fires and wars throughout history, losing many of its components. Originally, it was surrounded by a wide moat and high walls that served as defense against possible enemy attacks. One of the distinctive features of the building is the white tiles that cover the roof: they were made of lead so that they could withstand fire, although many legends say that during attacks these tiles were melted down to make bullets.
OYAMA SANCTUARY:
Even today, as in the past, you can see many people going to the Oyama Shrine to pray and ask for their wishes—of love or success—to be granted, expressed on small wooden plaques (ema) that are hung in front of the figure of Toshiie Maeda, the most powerful daimyo of the Maeda clan, to whom the expansion and wealth of the city of Kanazawa is owed. Located just a few steps from Kanazawa Park, the Oyama Shrine consists of a series of structures surrounded by greenery and a small but charming garden that helps make the atmosphere of this place even more peaceful and relaxing. Situated on the road between the Omicho market and the Kenroku-en gardens, the shrine is an excellent alternative for taking a break and spending some time visiting a place full of sacredness, where time seems to have stopped in the Edo period. The visit takes little time, about 30 minutes in total, but it is truly time well spent. I recommend, if possible, opting for the evening hours at sunset when the rays of the fiery sun shine on the tower that marks the entrance to the shrine, offering an exciting spectacle.
It is precisely the entrance gate that is the most distinctive and surprising element of this sacred place: it is built on three masonry arches, which give the impression of standing in front of a church portico, and it is topped by a tower decorated with stained glass windows on all four sides. A typically Western style, therefore, which blends with Chinese and Japanese architectural elements. This mix of influences is due to the ideas of the Dutch architect Holtman, who designed this gate in 1875, creating a rather innovative structure for the time. But in reality, this gate was not intended for the shrine: before it was moved in front of the shrine, it stood on the hills of the city and served as a lighthouse. It seems that originally this profile appeared strange and was little appreciated by the citizens, but today the tower has become the main attraction of the shrine. It stands proudly at the top of a stone staircase, capturing the attention of photographers and architecture enthusiasts: preceded by a torii gate at the base of the staircase, it features typical elements of Chinese tradition, such as the wooden carvings of the arches, the ornaments on the roof and doors on the second floor, and many other decorative details. The beauty and value of this building have consecrated it as an important part of the country's cultural heritage.
Entering the shrine complex, you are faced with the prayer hall, the haiden, a wooden structure that instead features a traditional Japanese architectural style, with a sloping tiled roof rich in decorative details. Here you can admire the statue of Maeda Toshiie, depicted on horseback, as was customary for the great warriors of the past. In the center of the garden there is a charming pond shaped like a Japanese lute and crossed by a small stone bridge; from its waters emerge many small islets, while all around grow lush plants, deliberately wild in appearance, adding a touch of mystery to the atmosphere. Completing the landscape are lanterns, rocks, and other stone monuments scattered here and there throughout the garden.
Kenroku-en Gardens
Kenroku-en Gardens
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